Walls Stencils, Plaster Stencils, Painting Stencils, Plaster Molds

Huge selection of classic stencils for elegant home decor.

Darla Dawald has been a long time Victoria Larsen customer. I love it when she shares her creations with us. Who wouldn’t be inspired by her lovely work?

She shared these wonderful tables with us where she used our Plaster Lizard Texture Stencil on table tops. Wow, don’t they look high end?


Raised Plaster Lizard Texture Stencil

Look how lovely and ultra detailed the surface came out!

In her email, she lists exactly what she did for you:


Hi Victoria,

I wanted to share the completed end tables with the VL Crocodile stencil with raised plaster, with you.

I used Snow White general finishes paint on body, then I painted the top in a dark gray. Tinted the plaster with black acrylic paint to make it dark gray. Applied the stencil 3 times across the center then taped off sections to complete the raised plaster stencil on top and bottom 6 times. It took some time but I’m happy with the result.

I then used the modern masters metallics in platinum with glaze. After it dried I used the silver tinted slightly with black as a glaze to achieve the depth. I poly sealed it in satin General Finishes with 4 clear coats on the top only. The General Finishes chalk paint on the body doesn’t require waxing or seal (which I love).

Just listed them for sale.

Feel free to use my photos.

Darla Dawald


Darla’s techniques can be used on any piece of furniture or even to create a high end looking accent wall in a powder room. I love how it came out! Don’t you?



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It started as a large, plain terra cotta pot from Walmart. 


I put it on the lazy susan in my craft shop and got to work.

I used our Raised Plaster Cerise Vine Stencil and instead of joint compound as the medium, I used pre-mixed tile grout. It dries rock hard and you don’t have to worry about wind or rain disturbing the design.


Don’t worry if the grout crumbles a little. That’s natural. But don’t over-work the grout.

Peel the stencil back to reveal the new design.


When using tile grout, be sure to clean your stencil immediately after each use so it doesn’t dry and clog the stencil openings.

After the stenciling is done, let it dry overnight.

Once dry, I sprayed the entire pot with Rustoleum’s Hammered Copper spray paint.


To create the Patina look, I used a damp sea sponge and after randomly brushing areas of the pot with Americana’s Sea Aqua craft paint (watered down just a hint), I sponged it to blend.


I then hand painted the vine with Art Deco’s metallic aqua paint to make them pop.


It’s now a permanent decorator fixture in my back yard!


This would be a great “for sale” item at craft fairs or on Etsy. Give it a try for yourself. It was fun!


This total make over is just going to Wow you!

When I moved in to my home in New Mexico in 2013, it became a new adventure in turning this plain home in to “My” home.

The kitchen was the first that just had to be improved. And you know me, it’s done with paint, stain and plaster!

It was the typical “boring” kitchen with construction grade cabinets, laminate counters and white linoleum floor (which I hated!).

Kitchen Make Over Before

I first decided to stain the cabinets, which I did with Minwax Polyshades. What cool stuff! All I was required to do was to scuff the old finish on the cabinets before applying the Polyshades.

cabinets after

I’ve always really loved dark wood furniture and cabinets (they just look so rich!), so I chose the “Espresso” color in Polyshades. I hated the first coat! It just didn’t seem to cover well and I thought to myself: “Why didn’t I do a test board?”. I always do a test board! (OK, almost always). But the second coat came out spectacular and I was on a roll!

Next came the counter tops. Until the day I can install real granite, it’s faux finish to the rescue! They look positively REAL and here’s how I did it:

First, clean, sand and prime the counter tops (protect the wall, sink and faucet with tape).


I randomly sponge black paint on to the counter top.


Sponge on a rust brown paint color then blot gently with a chip brush to blend and help make sure you get paint in to corners.

faux_granite_blackI added faux rust lines, (blending slightly) and larger, deep gray spots that were also blended. These little tricks make your faux granite look like real granite!

4 coats of polycrylic in gloss sheen gave it that pretty granite “shine” and protects the new finish.

Next came the back splash. I used my Raised Plaster Palisades Border Stencil for the back splash design.


Now, the last thing I had to do was to change those floors! Mind you, at some point, I’m putting in hard woods, but again, until that happens, it’s paint to the rescue!


I’ve always hated white linoleum! It’s not only totally boring, it also shows every spec of dirt, every droplet from your coffee cup and I was mopping constantly!

How to paint linoleum

Start with a squeakee clean floor then prime it with premium primer. I taped off a large rectangle in the center and using Behrs Porch and Floor Paint, I first rolled it with a cream color, then sponged on a darker brown. Blend, blend, Blend! 

I pulled up the tape and then re-added to the inside of the rectangle to protect it. I now reversed the colors on the outer border. I painted it the darker brown then sponge painted the cream color over it. Again, blend really well.

How to paint linoleum floors

I used the same Raised Plaster Palisades border stencil with just paint to create a pretty little border on the inside of the lighter rectangle. This really brought a unique look to the floor.


With the kitchen project done, I can let out a sigh, knowing “I can live with this!”. It’s beautiful and though it’s not “high end” finishes, it sure looks like it!