Fay's Tips

What do I use on the plaster stencils so it will hold up out of doors?	I have used water putty or "Fix-all" (a brand of extremely durable plaster found in your home store, also called "Quick Fix" on the East Coast) outside, but if your weather conditions are extreme you may want to use something more durable that will also stick to bare wood. One of Victoria's retired male customers, who did this kind of work for a living told her that "STUCCO REPAIR" would stick to bare wood and since it is absolutely for outside use on buildings should hold up well in any weather. I haven't, at this point, tried to use the product myself, but this may be worth looking into for your project. I would definitely try it on something you aren't going to use as a finished project before actually starting it where you want the stencil to go. Stucco Repair is similar to a concrete or mortar finish so I have no idea how easy it would be to use in the stencil. You may have to mix it a little thinner than normal for the repair to keep it from tearing up the stencil.
What if I wanted to put "grout" in between the bricks or rocks on the brick wall or Rock wall plaster stencil to make it look even more realistic?	You would want to use a different grouting technique than on tile or typical brick, however, as the joint compound has a very porous surface and would absorb the color of the grout as well, and may tend to rub off if you are rubbing over it hard enough to push the grout into the separations in the pattern. May I suggest that you invest in a disposable cake decorating set that has a bag with an open round tip or even an inexpensive plastic tubed one with a plunger that you can fill and push the grout out through the same round tip. (sometimes found in grocery or hobby shops). This would eliminate getting the grout on the pattern itself. After you have the grout in the grooves you could then come back "gently" with a damp sponge, (being careful not to rub the pattern to much), and smooth the surface of the grout. A pre-mixed, UN SANDED grout would be ideal for this kind of application.
What can I use to do plaster stenciling on hollow wood doors?	There shouldn't be any reason for you not to use the stencil on hollow wood doors as long as you prepare them properly. If the doors are new, bare wood they should be sealed with something prior to application. Otherwise, with varnished or painted doors you need to sand them lightly, wipe away the residue with something that will pick up all of the sanding dust or the stencil won't stick. Then wipe with rubbing alcohol which, for reasons unknown to me, helps prepare the surface to better "hold" the stencil materials. Since these are doors that are regularly opened and closed, I would recommend using "Water Putty", (trade name), which dries a yellow color and more expensive, or Fixall, which dries white and both can be found in home supply stores. The reason for using these products is that they dry harder and would not tend to crack as easily as joint compound MIGHT on a moving surface. Either way, the doors should NOT be moved until any product has completely dried hard. I usually recommend using 1 part white glue to 2 parts water for mixing these products, as they come in powder form. It really takes little product to produce the stencils. I would suggest using a LITTLE more glue since you plan to use this on a moving surface just for better adhesion to the surface. I used the fixall mixed with glue and water on a bare wood planter box I made for outside and the without it being sealed with something first the design fell off. I then removed it, stained the wood before adding the design again. Once it was totally dry I sprayed it with and interior/exterior clear spray to seal it. It has stayed firm since then and even repels water when I water the plants. I would recommend using the same type of sealer on the doors, using every precaution to cover any area that might be sprayed, with proper ventilation, if these are doors that are already hung. If they are you may consider removing the doors which would also give you a "flat" surface for applying the stencil and spraying the sealer. They could easily be re-hung once they are totally dry and no mess inside. I hope this has helped you. If you have other questions, please feel free to email me and happy plastering. vertafay@yahoo.com
Finding "Fix-all"	I, too, have had problems finding the fixall lately, but the Quick Fixall will do. One precaution, according to the name I am assuming it dries faster so mix and use SMALLER amounts at one time until you know exactly how fast it dries. Also, many places like Lowes, or other home suppliers carry their own name brand of similar products, so just look at the box info for uses and look for that in other brands if you find the Quick Fixall is not to your liking. Best of luck. Fay PS....Sorry it took so long to get you an answer. Have been lax in checking email lately since Spring is here and I am spending so much time outside working in my yard.
Various Mediums for Plaster Stenciling	To answer your question about the different materials. Spackle, basically used to fill nail holes or very small cracks in a wall. The most durable for plaster stencils. Plaster, used to do hard plaster finish on walls which I have in my house. Dries very hard. Joint compound, used to tape and texture dry wall materials on the house walls. Good for plaster stencils. If you have a "wet" area you are plastering the plaster would do fine. I would use about 1 Tsp. of glue per cup. Hope this helps.
Plaster Stenciling on Tile	I am Victoria's mom and she sent me your email. You should be able to do the plaster stencil on your faux tiles without any problem. Being in a "wet" area I would suggest adding just a little bit of white glue to the joint compound for more durability. I used Victoria's tree stencil on the wall of my front porch with the addition of glue. It is rock hard and has not been damaged by hail, rain or snow, which it is subject to. You didn't say if you plan to add color to the stencil, but once everything is totally dry give it one or two coats of Min-wax water based Polycrylic. I just got some to faux finish my bathroom floor, which this product is also designed for. I got clear gloss, but it also comes in a satin finish. The label say's it is a hard, crystal clear, ultra fast-drying protective finish with water clean up. Say's it resists damage from abrasion, scuffing, chipping, water, alcohol and other common household chemicals. I hope this information helps you. Have fun. Fay
From one of our helpful Customers! Using "Spackle" for Plaster Stenciling!	Dear Faye: Since you at one time, hauled cars for Portland police department, you are my hero. My daughter is a Portland police officer. I thought you might like a hint for your people who have questions. I use plain spackle for the raised stencil technique and haven't found anything I like better. You don't have to sand the high spots. Just take a moist rag and smooth them off. I have done this professional and personally. Hope this helps your readers. Arianna Haines
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